Garrett McNamara

“There's giant waves in numerous occasions around the world, it's a matter of the wind being offshore.”

“I have two settings: full speed and stop.”

“I keep trying to listen when I'm in a big wave, but I really don't hear anything.”

“Follow your heart and fear does not exist.”

“I lose my mind if I miss a swell that I want to be on and I have the ability to be on it.”

“If I'm physically feeling ready, then fear does not enter my mind. I don't let fear enter my mind.”

“To acknowledge that the biggest wave in the world might be a shore break off a little Portuguese town no one has ever heard of flies in the face of what passes for reason in the surf world.”

“I've always had very comfortable experiences under the water. I've enjoyed them all.”

“I read 'The Seven Spiritual Laws of Success' every day. The first time I read it, I was 35, depressed, and about to quit surfing.”

“Nazare loves me! I said God loves surfers, but Mama Nazare definitely loves me.”

“I'm not an adrenaline junkie; I won't jump out of aeroplanes and I'm afraid of horses. I just love surfing.”

“It's what I love to do and I'll never stop surfing.”

“I love being underwater.”

“I tend to get overly excited and want to just go. I just love, love big waves.”

“I had gotten too comfortable. I was desensitized whenever I got in the water. I started riding big waves for that rush, but now that feeling is nonexistent.”

“I've got a stretching program that's specific to my body, to keep my lower back mobile and my shoulders strong.”

“All these waves are just so fun to ride and are normal to me.”

“The scariest part is when you are coming down the wave and there is all this water coming down the wave and your feet are coming out of the straps.”

“I hope to be able to keep surfing as long as I'm alive.”

“I got married at the lighthouse , the 16th-century Forte de Sao Miguel Arcanjo, on the edge of the promontory of Sitio.”